Cosmetic Box (Tebako) with Chrysanthemum Flowers

During the Nara (710–784) and Heian (794–1185) periods, when the most important Shinto shrines were created in Japan, the court nobility offered sacred gifts to the deities (kami) venerated in these shrines, including mirrors, swords, precious crystals and cosmetic boxes. This lacquer cosmetic box (tebako) is a rare example of the kind of precious object made as a ritual offering. The boxes were offered with the notion that the deities could beautify themselves—similarly to the courtiers who applied makeup as a ritual and as a court custom. This tradition of offering elaborately decorated lacquer cosmetic sets continued mainly through the beginning of the Momoyama period (1573–1615). These special orders were made by the best lacquer masters using the most precious materials regardless of the costs.

This 15th-century, rectangular, deep box is decorated with gold and silver chrysanthemum flowers executed in raised and flat maki-e on “pear skin” (nashiji) ground. It has two finely crafted gilded metal fittings in the shape of eight chrysanthemums arranged in a circle surrounding a larger flower in the center. The box and its two inner trays—an unusual feature—have metal rims. The trays are also embellished with gold and silver chrysanthemums executed in burnished and flat maki-e on a pear skin ground. The small cosmetic boxes and combs that would have been inside of the box since been lost. The inside is lined with an elegant brocaded silk embellished with chrysanthemums to match the lacquer decoration. Chrysanthemum flowers are a symbol of longevity and good fortune in East Asian art referring to the legend of the Chrysanthemum Boy (Kikujidō).