Over Robe (Uchikake) with Mandarin Orange Branches and Books

This elegant over robe, decorated with auspicious evergreen mandarin oranges (tachibana) and scattered open books, was originally part of a set of three matching wedding garments made for a woman of the wealthy merchant class—the others in black and red, embellished with the same patterns. During the festive banquet that followed the wedding ceremony, the bride changed into these elaborately embroidered, expensive garments as she was formally introduced to the groom’s family. This robe features a white-figured satin-weave ground patterned with stylized paired-phoenix roundels and would have been admired by guests at the celebration. The open books are rendered in silk embroidery and gold-thread couching; although the title slips are missing from their covers, such motifs typically referenced The Tale of Genji, or other classic works of literature, perhaps poetry anthologies.