Battle surcoat (jinbaori)

18th century

Not on view

This luxurious, elegant, and somewhat eccentric battle surcoat (jinbaori) was made of black bear hide. The sleeve openings and the front lapels are trimmed with bright red leather, embossed with gold leaf patterns of dragons and waves. The highly stylized dragons emerge from crashing waves and ascend toward the garment collar. This decorative leather gilding technique was introduced from the Netherlands in the Edo period and was also used on luxurious tobacco pouches and household items. The family crest of the jinbaori’s owner, three oak leaves within a circle, most likely designating the Makino daimyo family based in Tanabe, is depicted as a repeat pattern on the sleeve openings. The same family crest is displayed on the back of the surcoat in embossed gold against black leather. The lining of the jinbaori is made from an imported Dutch printed cotton fabric with small floral patterns. The contrast of the bright red leather, shiny black fur, and bold gold patterns is sumptuous and regal. Powerful bears, symbols of bravery and strength, are featured in Japanese legends and classics. The brave samurai Washio Saburo, for example, fights a bear with his bare hands in a scene from the Battle of Ichinotani, when Yoshitsune led a charge against the Taira clan’s fortress.

Artwork Details

Overview

Provenance

Title: Battle surcoat (jinbaori)
Period: Edo period (1615–1868)
Date: 18th century
Culture: Japan
Medium: Bear hide with red leather and impressed gold patterns; printed cotton lining
Dimensions: 37 × 27 in. (94 × 68.6 cm)
Classification: Costumes
Credit Line: Gift of Rosemarie and Leighton R. Longhi, in honor of Monika Bincsik, 2023
Object Number: 2023.286.1
Curatorial Department: Asian Art

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