Collar composed of the Letters “S” and “M”
Though few medieval livery collars survive as objects, many are depicted in paintings and sculpture. This strikingly well-preserved example is similar to the collars comprised of S-shaped links (or Collars of Esses) that were popular at the English court from the late 14th century onward.
The alternating "S" and "M" could have many meanings. Possibilities include the name(s) of the person who wore it, or a noble house, or a married couple; Sancta Maria for the Virgin Mary; or the motto of a person, family, or institution, such as a variation of souvent me souvient ("Remember me often"), which was given to Saint John’s College, Cambridge, by its founder Lady Margaret Beaufort in 1511. Letters with ambiguous or even mysterious meanings were not uncommon in late medieval fashion, potentially adding to the drama and intrigue of courtly life.
The alternating "S" and "M" could have many meanings. Possibilities include the name(s) of the person who wore it, or a noble house, or a married couple; Sancta Maria for the Virgin Mary; or the motto of a person, family, or institution, such as a variation of souvent me souvient ("Remember me often"), which was given to Saint John’s College, Cambridge, by its founder Lady Margaret Beaufort in 1511. Letters with ambiguous or even mysterious meanings were not uncommon in late medieval fashion, potentially adding to the drama and intrigue of courtly life.
Artwork Details
- Title: Collar composed of the Letters “S” and “M”
- Date: 15th century
- Culture: British
- Medium: Silver, partially gilded
- Dimensions: 11/16 × 20 1/16 in., 5.45oz. (1.7 × 51 cm, 154.53g) [without clasps]
1 9/16 x 25 3/16 in. (4 x 64 cm) [with clasps] - Classifications: Metalwork-Silver, Jewelry
- Credit Line: Purchase, Bequest of Florene Schoenborn, by exchange, 2024
- Object Number: 2024.385
- Curatorial Department: Medieval Art and The Cloisters
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British
late 15th century
British
ca. 1490
British
ca. 1470–90
On loan to The Met
British
15th century
British (?)
1475–1500
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