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Design House House of Moschino Italian
Designer Franco Moschino Italian
Couture Line Moschino Couture Italian

Not on view

These playful gloves by Franco Moschino conjure the work of Elsa Schiaparelli and the accessories from her winter 1936 collection. Although both designers share an Italian heritage, a wry sense of humor, and a lifelong engagement with fine art, Schiaparelli’s process of inspiration was more collaborative. She perceived herself as an inventor (but never creator, a term she deemed pretentious), freed by her lack of formal training to experiment unrestrainedly with a variety of manufacturers and artist friends. Moschino tended toward quotation. He would frequently remark: “I have never invented anything. Rather, I have remade, re-proposed, reinterpreted. I consider myself a commentator.” In both instances, the designers playfully subvert the social propriety of gloves through an unsettling use of visible cosmetics. A 1935 photograph by the artist Man Ray—a collaboration with his peer Pablo Picasso, who had clothed a pair of hands in painted imaginary gloves—inspired Schiaparelli’s early rendition, which featured appliquéd red snakeskin fingernails on a stark ground of black or white suede. In Moschino’s later interpretation, tan leather amplifies the lifelike trompe l’oeil effect of jarring (or convulsive) beauty.

Gloves, House of Moschino (Italian, founded 1983), leather, Italian

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© 2019 Nicholas Alan Cope