Coat

Fortuny drew inspiration for the pattern of floral forms and scrolling vines on this sumptuous printed velvet from Safavid Persian motifs. The printing technique, however, with its plays on light and texture, was deeply influenced by Italian Renaissance velvets that Fortuny observed both through their depiction in paintings and by directly studying examples from his own collection. Renaissance velvet weavers produced dimensionality and varied levels of luminosity by adjusting their treatment of the pile, brocading with diverse types of metal threads, and introducing areas of looped weft threads to create a bouclé effect. Through his innovative printing techniques, Fortuny was able to simulate a range of the effects found in brocaded velvets. Highly uniform areas of metallic pigment evoke the intense brilliance of closely woven flat gilt metal threads. A slightly irregular finish, as seen here, recalls the glinting quality of metallic yarns worked in bouclé loops.