Textile

This object is from a collection of sample embroideries, which was originally owned by Morris de Camp Crawford, editor of Women's Wear Daily, who collected objects which told the story of fashion and fabric history. Included in this collection was a group of textiles which illustrated what American and French designers and manufacturers were using. According to Crawford's book The Ways of Fashion, the work of Polish artist Sarah Lipska (1882-1973) was represented in this collection. Lipska is an enigmatic figure, who is known to have worked with Leon Bakst as a set and costume designer for the Ballets Russes, and later in the 1920s as a fashion designer in Paris at 4 rue Belloni, and finally as a sculptor. Extant examples of her work are rare. Although only a few pieces in the Brooklyn Museum collection bear a label or a signature, others bear hallmarks of her work, such as a distinctive form of whip stitching on appliqué work, unusual abstract motifs, and Cubist-inspired patterns.

The overlapping three circle motif seen in this glittering sample is similar to the three circle motif known as "leopard spots" from textiles made during the Ottoman Empire. With the wavy lines or "tiger stripes" the motif was the conqueror of Constantinople, Mehmet II's, standard. This embroidered sample, possibly by Lipska, is an example of the various worldly influences available to designers. This artistic piece, both in design and embroidery skill, employs a particularly subtle and sophisticated color combination. The lamé background beautifully sets off the medium-toned mottled peach beads and the bright coral and bright mauve beads.