Noh Costume (Chōken) with Water Plants and Mulberry Leaves, Silk gauze (ro) brocaded with metallic thread, Japan

黄地沢瀉水仙梶葉模様長絹
Noh Costume (Chōken) with Water Plants and Mulberry Leaves

Period:
Edo period (1615–1868)
Date:
18th century
Culture:
Japan
Medium:
Silk gauze (ro) brocaded with metallic thread
Dimensions:
Overall: 47 1/8 x 80 1/4 in. (119.7 x 203.8 cm)
Classification:
Costumes
Credit Line:
Purchase, Joseph Pulitzer Bequest, 1932
Accession Number:
32.30.4
Not on view
An outer robe worn primarily for dances by Noh actors in female roles, the chōken is often made of silk gauze delicately patterned in metallic thread. Here, as in many chōken, there are two different patterns. Scattered mulberry leaves decorate the bottom of the robe while at the top are larger designs of water plants: omodaka, with its arrowhead-shaped leaves, and suisen, a type of narcissus.

The conventionalized flowing water beneath the plants is sometimes called kanze mizu (literally, "Kanze water"), a pattern associated with the Kanze troupe of Noh actors. Kanze mizu later became the symbol for a particular Kabuki actor, Sawamura Sōjūrō III, who appears wearing clothing patterned with the motif in a woodblock print (JP2720) by Utagawa Toyokuni.
Louis V. Ledoux , New York (until 1932; sold to MMA).
New York. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. "Tribute to a Dedicated Collector: Mary Griggs Burke," June 30, 2004–November 29, 2004.

Asian Art (35,454)