Robe (Kosode) with Pine, Ivy, Chrysanthemums, and River

Japan

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This sumptuous robe was made for the young Kyoto noblewoman Yuki-gimi (Princess Yuki), who was the daughter of the twentieth head priest of the influential Higashi Honganji Temple in Kyoto. It is very rare that the name of the original owner of an Edo-period garment is recorded. This kosode is a formal garment featuring the lady’s family crest on the back and around the neckline on the front. Its chartreuse ground, which was created using a Western aniline dye, is animated around the hem with vividly colored pine, ivy, and chrysanthemums—all auspicious symbols of longevity and youth that also featured in Japanese literary classics.

Robe (Kosode) with Pine, Ivy, Chrysanthemums, and River, Crepe silk with resist-dyeing and silk- and metallic-thread embroidery, Japan

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