Over Robe (Uchikake) with Genji Wheels, Narcissus Bouquets, Wild Ginger Leaves, Wisteria, and Chrysanthemums

The red-figured satin-weave silk ground of this elegant samurai woman’s over robe (uchikake) is patterned with repeated key-fret patterns, chrysanthemums, and orchids. It is embroidered with narcissus bouquets, wild ginger leaves, wisteria, and chrysanthemums in gold, light and dark green, and purple, but its main design shows the stylized wheels of an imperial ox-drawn carriage. Because such carriages (gosho-guruma) were often depicted in paintings associated with The Tale of Genji, they are sometimes referred to as Genji-guruma; the term came to be used for the wheels as well. While this motif alludes to the court, the flowers are all auspicious symbols, and the robe’s bright red color indicates that it was made to be worn by a young woman on a festive occasion.