Evening dress

First established in the 1890s by the four Callot sisters as a lingerie and lace business, Callot Soeurs evolved into a premier dressmaking house in the early years of the 20th century. Madame Gerber, the eldest Callot sister, served as the primary designer for the Callot Soeurs until 1927 when her sons took over the business. The garments from Callot Soeurs in the Brooklyn Museum collection incorporate the signature elements of the house: antique lace trimming, Orientalist textiles, lavish embroidery that includes bead- or ribbonwork, or a combination of these elements. In this garment, the metallic threads of the brocade serve provide the only ornamentation while the asymmetrical train adds a feeling of spontaneity to the design. Many women of style from abroad visited the Callot sisters, including Mrs. William H. Crocker, a San Francisco philanthropist and patron of Impressionist painting, who owned this dress.