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Tunic

Design House Fortuny Italian
Designer Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo Spanish

Not on view

Late Antique textiles and garments created in Egypt by Copts and other weavers served as frequent sources of inspiration for Fortuny. They appealed to him for their simply cut forms and the geometric quality of their motifs, which complemented the simple geometry of garments like this sleeveless tunic. Here, the arrangement of Fortuny’s printed pattern–in square panels and in bands that extend vertically from the shoulder and form right angles toward the lower edge–echoes the placement of tapestry-woven designs found on Late Antique tunics. The vine pattern and the square panels containing figures likewise reflect the influence of this period, between roughly the third and seventh century. Fortuny’s use of cotton, a material he more frequently reserved for interior decoration, offers a matte surface that corresponds to the soft finish of the linen or wool of his antique prototype, while his choice of color lends a sense of modernity.

Tunic, Fortuny (Italian, founded 1906), cotton, silk, glass, Italian

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© 2019 Nicholas Alan Cope L.2018.61.27a, b (dress) and L.2018.61.33 (tunic)