Ensemble

Olivier Theyskens' early work for his eponymous label is characterized by a combination of high-level craftsmanship and a romantic, gothic aura with which the gowns are imbued. The designer's natural talent for cutting and draping can be seen in this dress's voluminous skirt as well as the sharply cut bodice, which has a cross-shaped opening fastened with hooks and eyes, a signature design element in his work. Reminiscent of medieval crusaders and religious orders, the dress is both austere as well as sensual, typical of a certain melancholic beauty inherent to his work. The contrast between the sharply cut bodice and the overflowing fabric of the skirt characterizes the spirit of Theyskens' work built on creative tensions between the disciplined and the languorous, between Eros and Thanatos.