Noh Costume (Atsuita) with Checkered Ground and Chrysanthemums in Stream

Green, orange-red, white, and brownish-purple blocks form a colorful, contrasting background for white chrysanthemums drifting on flowing water. The pattern refers to the ancient Chinese legend of the Chrysanthemum Boy (Kikujidō) or the Noh play based on that story, which tells of a youth banished from court who spends centuries diligently copying a couplet from the Lotus Sutra, one of Buddhism’s most important scriptures, on chrysanthemum leaves. Having drunk miraculous water from a stream where dewdrops had fallen from chrysanthemums, the boy becomes unaware of the passage of time and is freed from aging and infirmity. This robe’s warp yarns were tie-dyed before they were woven, resulting in a blurry ikat pattern. Supplementary silk wefts were used to express the flowers and waves. Atsuita robes with checks, geometric patterns, and Chinese motifs were worn mainly by male leads as undergarments, but this example was shortened and refashioned for a child’s role, probably after being damaged at the hem.

On view from June 7, 2022 – February 20, 2023