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Outer Robe (Katsugi) with Chrysanthemum Crest

Japan

Not on view

A katsugi is a woman’s mantle or coatlike veil, usually in the shape of a kosode, worn pulled over the head with the sleeves unused. Some katsugi were made of silk, but most were hemp with indigo-dyed patterns. This example represents a type with a large flower motif, here a chrysanthemum crest, where the garment covers the head. As the chrysanthemum crest is placed lower than usual and the robe’s other patterns are relatively simple, this could be a regional variation of katsugi made for a commoner in Kyoto, where it remained popular throughout the Edo period. Stencil-dyeing and tube-drawn paste-resist dyeing (tsutsugaki) were used to create patterns on this robe in white reserve: the applied rice paste resisted the indigo dye. From shoulder to hem, the patterns are: chrysanthemums and stylized concentric motifs among small dots against an indigo ground; plum blossoms on a green ground; stylized hemp leaves against an indigo ground; and bracken fern fiddleheads on a blue-black ground.

On view from June 7, 2022 – February 20, 2023

Outer Robe (Katsugi) with Chrysanthemum Crest, Plain-weave cotton with stencil paste-resist dyeing, Japan

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