Turkey, probably Istanbul
Silk, metal–wrapped thread; taqueté (seraser); H. 14 1/2 in. (36.8 cm), W. 6 3/8 in. (16.2 cm)
Rogers Fund, 1915 (15.125.7)
This fragment depicts a rare small-scale version of the design known as chintamani, which finds its etymology in Sanskrit (“auspicious jewel”) and usually features three circles or closed crescent forms representing pearls. Also associated with the patterning on animal skins, the circular elements are alternately referenced as leopard spots, and often accompanied by wavy lines representing tiger stripes. In this fine example of seraser, the gold ground of the cloth is accomplished by weft threads comprised of thin strips of silver foil wrapped around a yellow silk core, giving the surface of the cloth its luster.