Designer: Textile by Anna Maria Garthwaite (British, 1690–1763)

Manufacturer: Textile by Peter Lekeux (British, 1716–1768)

Date: 1747

Culture: British

Medium: silk, wool, metallic

Credit Line: Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1966

Accession Number: C.I.66.14.2


The original design of this waistcoat, in the collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, was acquired by that institution along with several volumes of Garthwaite's designs, and was published in articles by Peter Thornton and Natalie Rothstein on the Huguenot silk-weaving industry in London. The marvel of this original design is that it identifies not only the artist but also the weaver, Peter Lekeux, and gives the date of sale -- October 23, 1747 -- as well. In addition, the metal threads to be used in the weaving are described: "dark yellow plate" (a plain, metal strip); "light yellow plain" (a metal strip wound around a silk or linen core); and "grey frosted" (a textured thread that sparkles). Both Garthwaite and Peter Lekeux were important contributors to the English silk industry in the Spitalfields area of London.