Robe (kosode) with landscape and seasonal flowers

mid-19th century

Not on view

The opening of Japan’s ports to international trade in 1854, followed by the social and historical changes of the Meiji period, transformed the textile industry. From the 1880s, Empress Shōken (1849–1914) and her court promoted the adoption of Western-style fashion along with the development of domestic textile manufacture. This early Meiji-period robe was probably made for an aristocratic lady. Its purple figured satin fabric with cranes and geometric patterns was dyed with aniline pigment imported from the West. Strong purple, red, or green colors became popular, and purple in particular was reserved for high-ranking ladies. At the center of the composition is a landscape with a blossoming cherry tree, full moon, flying geese, maples and, around the hem, a thatched hut, autumn flowers, and grasses. These motifs are executed in very fine, beautifully stitched embroidery.

Artwork Details

Overview

Provenance

Exhibition History

紫綸子地雲月雁桜萩菊模様小袖
Title: Robe (kosode) with landscape and seasonal flowers
Period: Meiji period (1868–1912
Date: mid-19th century
Culture: Japan
Medium: Figured silk satin with silk-and gold-thread embroidery
Dimensions: 69 1/2 × 48 1/2 in. (176.5 × 123.2 cm)
Classification: Costumes-Embroidered
Credit Line: Mary Livingston Griggs and Mary Griggs Burke Foundation Fund, 2018
Object Number: 2018.647
Curatorial Department: Asian Art

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