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Surcoat (Jinbaori)

Unidentified artist

late 18th–early 19th century

Not on view

This sleeveless surcoat (jinbaori) was designed to be worn over armor. It is decorated with chrysanthemum flowers, which represent longevity. The front opening is lined with gold brocade decorated with dragonflies (kachi-mushi), a motif popular among warriors, as dragonflies always fly straight ahead, never backward. As such, they became associated with victory and bravery.

The text is embroidered over an ink underdrawing to imitate manuscript writing. The poetic inscription, perhaps added at a later date, is rendered in a mixture of highly cursive Chinese characters and characters that are read phonetically (sōgana). It reads:

Saki-idete
katsu-iro miseyo

After bursting into bloom
show your triumphant colors

—Trans. John T. Carpenter

Surcoat (Jinbaori), Unidentified artist, Embroidered inscription in silk on silk satin with supplementary weft patterning; lining of woven hemp stenciled in gold leaf and indigo dye, Japan — This image cannot be enlarged, viewed at full screen, or downloaded.

Surcoat (Jinbaori), Unidentified artist, Embroidered inscription in silk on silk satin with supplementary weft patterning; lining of woven hemp stenciled in gold leaf and indigo dye, Japan

Surcoat (Jinbaori), Unidentified artist, Embroidered inscription in silk on silk satin with supplementary weft patterning; lining of woven hemp stenciled in gold leaf and indigo dye, Japan

This artwork is meant to be viewed from right to left. Scroll left to view more.

This image cannot be enlarged, viewed at full screen, or downloaded.

This image cannot be enlarged, viewed at full screen, or downloaded.

和歌菊花散陣羽織

Title: Surcoat (Jinbaori)

Artist: Unidentified artist

Period: Edo period (1615–1868)

Date: late 18th–early 19th century

Culture: Japan

Medium: Embroidered inscription in silk on silk satin with supplementary weft patterning; lining of woven hemp stenciled in gold leaf and indigo dye

Dimensions: 43 5/16 × 25 9/16 in. (110 × 65 cm)

Classification: Costumes

Credit Line: Lent by John C. Weber Collection

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Asian Art at The Met

The Met's collection of Asian art—more than 35,000 objects, ranging in date from the third millennium B.C. to the twenty-first century—is one of the largest and most comprehensive in the world.