Chief's nogi (wrapper)
Folded between and around the legs, nogi were held in place at the waist with a belt to create a set of voluminous trousers. Such personal items were often handcrafted by the wearer by pounding large sections of bark into fibrous cloth panels that were then sewn together with strands of raffia fiber. Intricate patterning enhanced a garment’s prestigious character, evident on this chief’s wrapper in the two narrow panels with sunburst and circle motifs. At the turn of the twentieth century, male members of the Mangbetu court displayed their elevated status by consistently wearing new nogi, whose edges extended stiffly above the belt. In contrast, those of lesser social standing maintained older nogi with edges softened by regular use.
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