Group of Turkman Ornaments, nos. 2018.922.1–.6a, .6b
These bold silver ornaments come from the world of the Turkman tribes of Central Asia. Some of the forms such as the lozenge shaped amulet holder or Quran box relate to the styles of jeweled arts of the courts and urban centers. But most of these large and vibrant ornaments are a final expression of the unique sensibility of the Turkman people as their nomadic life gives way to modernity.
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Turkmen children’s ornaments have a special charm, different from the more imposing works made for women; they are smaller and more whimsical. Amulets in various shapes and sizes, singly or in pairs, were sewn onto boys’ clothing, generally on the back but sometimes on a bib.[52] They illustrate the original function of ornament in Turkmen culture as protection against the evil eye and sickness, but also evoke the children’s world of play. Examples of the latter are animal-shaped amulets such as a pair of camels (nos. 2009.530.3a, b) or bow-and-arrow-shaped amulets (smaller versions of the works discussed under pectorals nos. 2010.501.7 and 2012.206.4 and headdress ornaments nos. 2016.714.2, .3, and 2009.530.5a, b). Square amulets surmounted by ram’s-horn terminals are among the most distinctive Turkmen ornaments because of the prominent terminals.
Nos. 2010.501.6a, b and 2017.639.9 present variations on this type. Both are square, inset with carnelians at the center, and embellished with appliqué or fire gilding. The ram’s-horn terminals are both playful and anthropomorphic; the latter characteristic is sometimes attributed to other Turkmen ornaments, particularly adamlik temple pendants.
No. 2018.922.2 is a small square box with chains and bells. Originally the box would have contained prayers or invocations against the evil eye and would have been sewn onto a boy's cap. Even this small-scale work presents the same fine workmanship seen in larger pieces.
Layla S. Diba in [Diba 2011]
Footnotes:
52. See Rudolph, Hermann. Der Turkmenenschmuck: Sammlung Kurt Gull. Exh. cat., Museum Rietberg Zürich; Museum für Völkerkunde, Berlin. Stuttgart, 1984, p. 72, figs. A1–A3; and Steffan, Roland, and Hans- Jörg Schwabl. Silberglanz und Kleiderpracht der Seidenstrassen: Sammlung Kurt Gull. Exh. cat., Volkerkundemuseum, St. Gallen, Switzerland, 2004, p. 143, fig. 97, for images of a bib and a boy’s coat respectively.
Marshall and Marilyn R. Wolf, New York, NY (by 2006–18; gifted to MMA)
New York. The Hagop Kevorkian Special Exhibitions Gallery, The Metropolitan Museum of Art. "Turkmen Jewelry," October 9, 2012–February 24, 2013, no. 124.
Diba, Layla S. "Silver Ornaments from the Marshall and Marilyn R. Wolf Collection." In Turkmen Jewelry. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2011. no. 124, pp. 168–69, ill. (color).
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