Crown
Not on view
Women of the nomadic Turkmen tribes that populated regions from Central Asia to Iran wore headdresses such as this one, together with other jewelry, under soft cloth caps, tall stiff headgear, and scarves or veils. Characteristic of sophisticated Turkmen jewelry, such monumental head and face ornaments were worn to indicate the wearer's tribe and marital status. The most sumptuous and lavish versions were created by the Teke tribe, to which this hat-shaped example, sometimes referred to as a "crown," is attributed. Characteristic of Teke jewelry, it has an elegant arabesque design based on the split palmette and an incrustation of carnelians, which articulate the design and mark colorful accents. The composition on top emanates from the center like a radiant tree; a single scroll of floral split palmettes realized in elaborate openwork decorates the side. Another feature characteristic of Teke ornament, and one that adds considerable sophistication, is the golden tone, achieved by fire gilding the polished silver ground.
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