Choix, "Planche VII: Manteau & Robe du soir"
This book, titled "Choix" (Choice), is the second of 800 copies that were published by Paul Iribe, a French illustrator, cartoonist, designer, decorator and art director, in 1930. Lamenting that French design had become "poor" and "americanized" in the years since the First World War, Iribe argues that the genius of French design lies in what he calls the "principe de l'arabesque" (principle of the arabesque). Facing the economic downturn of the 1930, Iribe is inviting his fellow French designers to choose to return to the "arabesque France" in design rather than to continue following the fashions imposed by the "cube Europe". To do so, after 31 pages with written text explaining his purpose, he presents seven plates of printed overlays over gold and silver board images depicting styles of the 1930's in home decor and fashion, as examples of industrial designs to illustrate the principle of the arabesque.
This plate, the last in the book, presents a design for a night gown, created on the gold board with slightly rough surfaces and lines over a slightly smoother background, and a coat, created with gold and black on the printed overlay. The dress is made up of a simple shape, with a round neckline and sleeveless, and hangs tight to the body to the floor level. A piece of black fabric hangs from the back of the shoulders and meets on the waist, which is decorated with a small hanging pendant with five strips of pearls. Below the pendant, the skirt opens with a vertical piece of pleated fabric, which is also decorated on the back by a hanging black fabric.
The coat is cut at the hip level, and also hugs the body of the woman, accentuating the waist and opening up with pleats around the hips; the sleeves are loose and thick, possibly inspired by the shape of kimono sleeves. The fabric that makes up the coat contains what seems to be the ocean, with some large scrolling waves, and flying birds and fish. The wrists of the sleeves and the neck of the coat are made up of black fur, and a sort of cape, possibly also made up of fur, hangs on the back of the coat.
This outfit illustrates the type of luxurious clothing that was typical of the 1920s and that acquired importance during the Art Deco period.
This plate, the last in the book, presents a design for a night gown, created on the gold board with slightly rough surfaces and lines over a slightly smoother background, and a coat, created with gold and black on the printed overlay. The dress is made up of a simple shape, with a round neckline and sleeveless, and hangs tight to the body to the floor level. A piece of black fabric hangs from the back of the shoulders and meets on the waist, which is decorated with a small hanging pendant with five strips of pearls. Below the pendant, the skirt opens with a vertical piece of pleated fabric, which is also decorated on the back by a hanging black fabric.
The coat is cut at the hip level, and also hugs the body of the woman, accentuating the waist and opening up with pleats around the hips; the sleeves are loose and thick, possibly inspired by the shape of kimono sleeves. The fabric that makes up the coat contains what seems to be the ocean, with some large scrolling waves, and flying birds and fish. The wrists of the sleeves and the neck of the coat are made up of black fur, and a sort of cape, possibly also made up of fur, hangs on the back of the coat.
This outfit illustrates the type of luxurious clothing that was typical of the 1920s and that acquired importance during the Art Deco period.
Artwork Details
- Title: Choix, "Planche VII: Manteau & Robe du soir"
- Author: Written by Paul Iribe (French, Angoulême 1883–1935 Roquebrune-Cap-Martin)
- Designer: Designed by Paul Iribe (French, Angoulême 1883–1935 Roquebrune-Cap-Martin)
- Publisher: Published by Editions Iribe , Montrouge (Seine)
- Date: 1930
- Medium: plates: photomechanical
- Dimensions: Sheet (gold and silver board image): 11 3/4 × 9 3/8 in. (29.9 × 23.8 cm)
Sheet (printed overlay): 11 9/16 in. × 9 in. (29.4 × 22.9 cm)
Book: 12 × 9 13/16 × 13/16 in. (30.5 × 25 × 2 cm) - Classifications: Books, Prints, Ornament & Architecture
- Credit Line: The Elisha Whittelsey Collection, The Elisha Whittelsey Fund, 1973
- Object Number: 1973.516.1(7)
- Curatorial Department: Drawings and Prints
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