Journal des Dames et des Modes, No. 66 (20 March 1914)

66th issue of the "Journal des dames et des modes", published on March 20, 1914. This issue forms part of the second half of a collection of 36 volumes of the Journal des dames et des modes (June 1, 1913 - May 20, 1914, numbers 37-72), and contains 2 unnumbered leaves of advertisements, 8 pages of text (numbered (65)-72), and two plates (numbered 149 and 150), illustrated by H. Robert Dammy and George Barbier. The texts in this issue explains the return of feathers to decorate women's hats, as well as two co-existing trends in skirts: one with draped layers around the hips, the other, narrow and tubular in form. Because both are worn by women of the time, couturiers are blamed for taking advantage of their customers and making large incomes as a result of this double trend, not only causing rage in the husbands that pay for the garments, but also in the less-affluent women who are not able to pay for this expensive new fashion.

The "Journal des dames et des modes" was published in Paris by Vaugirard between June 1, 1912 and August 1, 1914. Inspired on an earlier journal of the same title (also known as "La Mésangère", which disappeared in 1839), the "Journal des dames et des modes" appealed to "the curious", lovers of rare editions, who valued fashion journals featuring limited editions with carefully executed fashion illustrations that could be equated to works of art. Each issue of the journal was made up of several texts, including poems, commentaries, and narrations of life in Paris, and hand-colored engravings or pochoir prints, executed in vivid colors and drawn by the leading artists of the day, including George Barbier, Antoine Vallée, Léon Bakst, and Umberto Brunelleschi. The combination of writings and illustrations was meant to be a reflection of the cultural atmosphere in Paris at the time, showcasing the best of intellectual, artistic and fashion creations.