Over robe (uchikake) with chrysanthemums, butterflies, and sheaves of rice straw

This late Edo-period formal over robe (uchikake) was made for a high-ranking lady from the Tokugawa shogun family. It was worn over a kosode (robe with small sleeve openings) and without a sash (so that it was open in the front and fabric pooled at the hem) for special occasions. Thick padding was added to the hem, creating a pleasing shape on the ground as the robe trailed behind the wearer. The ground fabric is a rich figured satin-weave silk with irises and butterflies against swirl patterns. It could be a reference to the Yatsuhashi scene of the Tales of Ise, featuring irises amid eight plank bridges, which is associated with late spring or early summer. The silk was dyed to a deep purple hue, and the large size of the woven patterns indicate a late Edo period production date. The decoration is confined to the lower part of the garment, below the waist, and to the lower sections of the long furisode sleeves. The sleeves imply that this robe was made for a young, unmarried woman. The main decoration is in embroidery, with colorful butterflies, chrysanthemum flowers, and sheaves of rice straw. The chrysanthemums and the rice straw pattern indicate autumn, so the uchikake was perhaps designed to suit both late spring and early autumn occasions. The careful composition and delicate silk embroidery combined with gold thread couching reflect the expensive tastes of high-ranking samurai women. The crests of wild ginger across the shoulders on the back and the front of this sophisticated garment indicate that the owner was from the Tokugawa family.