Design for a Gold Earring with Black Pearls and Blue Stones

Drawing with a design for a gold earring with black pearls and blue stones that is part of a collection of 85 drawings with figurative designs for earrings, brooches, pendants and other jewels, possibly real-sized, created with graphite and gouache and heightened with gold inside lithograph frames. These designs are all characteristic of the period between 1870 and 1900, when jewelry design saw a great degree of innovation and creativity in both style and technique. Some of the most important innovations that took place at this time included the setting of diamonds without metal on the back to reinforce the refraction of light on the cut surfaces of the stones, and the use of gold granules and cannetille (scrolls of metal strips) in the creation of fine metal surfaces. (Semi-)precious stones continued to be used in jewelry design at this time, especially with the discovery of diamond mines in South Africa, although alternative techniques, many of them inspired on ancient jewelry, were also common: Enamel in its different application techniques (including champlevé, cloisonné, and low-relief) was particularly popular. In addition to enamel, colored glass was used to add touches of color to the metallic structures that formed the base of the jewels. In general, jewelry design during this period became more complex, and the colors in nature were mimicked by the color of gemstones used for jewelry design: the designs were elaborate and relied in the natural beauty of cabochon gems, curving, and figurative designs with symbolic meaning, typical of the Arts and Crafts movement. Towards the end of the nineteenth century, the Art Nouveau movement created sinuous and organic pieces that moved away from conventional stones and put emphasis on the subtle effects of materials such as glass, horn and enamel. The European Middle Ages and the Renaissance, as well as civilizations of the Mediterranean, and even Japan, became important sources of inspiration for jewelry design at this time.

This design for a gold earring is made up of a gold trapezoid motif that hangs from a gold inverted triangle decorated with a horizontal strip of two square-cut blue stones. The trapezoid motif is decorated with a black pearl and contains a cutout in the center with a scrolling sheet of metal of a tone slightly darker than the gold, decorated with a vertical strip of square-cut blue pearls in the middle. A small teardrop black pearl hangs from this sheet; two other pearls hang from the bottom corners of the trapezoid motif. The blue stones could have been turquoises, which were in vogue during this time period, taking inspiration from Maghreb and the Mediterranean. They could also have been achieved with enamel or replaced by blue-colored glass; the black pearls could have also been replaced by black-colored glass. This drawing of a design for an earring stands over a background of black gouache over a lithograph frame of cream color.